KAYAK AND CLIMB - MUSANDAM, OMAN - 2023
Good friends, kayaks, climbing gear and a remote fjord in Oman turned out to be just as good as one could imagine!
On the tip of the Arabian peninsula lies Musandam, an Omani exclave pinched between the United Arab Emirates and the Strait of Hormuz. The landscape here is desert-like and mountainous, with a network of fjords up north. More than once we were told that Musandam is called the Norway of Arabia and it makes a lot of sense; only that temperatures were steady around 23 degrees C in January and the mountains were orange in color in the afternoon sun…
Our plan was to simply to enjoy ourselves as much as possible. Kayak, climb, hike, run and chill - whatever we felt for any given day. The centerpiece of the trip was however to do a couple of proper first ascents.
After being picked up from the airport in Dubai and a smooth border crossing into Oman we arrive in the coastal city of Khasab, originally built up as a supply point for Portuguese ships sailing through the strait. Despite being the capital of the Musandam Governorate, we find the city to be pretty damn boring and the restaurants we try out leave a lot to wish for, but the hypermarket is a perfect place to stock up for our small expedition. With two double kayaks filled to the rim with food and gear, and a packraft with some 80+ liters of water, we are ready for eight days out.
The first half day of kayaking, before entering the fjord, is rather exposed from the north and the swell from strong winds the days before is just on the border between great fun and slightly scary. Once in the fjord though the water is very calm, there is almost no wind, and the midday sun makes the air vibrate within the huge pot that surrounds us. We paddle to a pristine beach where we set camp for the night. Like all nights but one, no tent is needed and we simply roll out our sleeping pads on the sand. At sea level the temperatures are rather pleasant throughout the night but a sleeping bag is definitely comfortable in the early morning hours.
The first climb is expected to be a bit above my skill level, so while Alan and Aniek set out at first light my plan is to chill a bit in camp first and then try to get some photos from the kayak on the lower part of the climb, before hiking and scrambling my way over a ridgeline to the top and meeting them there.
With the usual loss of perspectives in these kinds of environments, spotting the two climbers up on that huge wall turns out to be much harder than expected and I spend a good hour searching before I finally see them from my kayak. It is clear that their progress is slower than hoped for and if they continue like this it will be a long day if they are to make it to the top. After an hour of paddling I reach the lower end of the ridgeline and start my hike. Finding a way up is a bit tricky, and even though I have a headlight with me I’m in absolute agreement with myself - I do not want to go down in the dark, on my own, without rope. So I decide on a turn around time at 4pm unless I’m sure that they will make it to the top.
Whether it is luck or skill, spotting them from the top of the wall goes surprisingly fast, and not too long after we are able to communicate via loud shouting. Despite the continued slow progress they are determined and confident to continue all the way up. So, after Alan and Aniek topping out not too long before sunset we all head down the same ridge I came up, enjoying a colorful sunset on the way and a well deserved can of tuna with crackers back at the kayak.
When paddling back to camp in the dark, bioluminescent algae sparkle around the paddle as it strikes through the water creating a magical setting in the peaceful and quiet fjord. The judgment from the climbing team is pretty clear after a long day: rock quality is less than good - thus naming the route “Good from far but far from good”.
The following days we rest a bit, do some kayak-sight-seeing further into the fjord and go searching for deep water soloing. A more suitable name for what we find is probably shallow water bouldering, but never the less it’s a nice afternoon activity in the hot sun and pleasantly cooling water.
For the second climb we have scouted a route close to the entrance of the fjord. We decide to keep the camp further into the fjord as it is a good starting point for the mountain hike we plan for the following days, meaning we start the day with a couple of hours of paddling before we arrive at the beach where we start the climb. No doubt there is plenty of loose rock at this route as well, but the climbing is relatively easy on most of the pitches and we make steady but slow progress up the wall on another sunny and warm day.
For reasons hard to understand in retrospect, at the start we expected to be up and down again in something like four hours. Now, after four hours on the wall we estimate that we are just a bit higher than half way up and we realize that we will not be able to top out and rappel down in daylight. Due to the abundance of loose rocks and plenty of things to get the rope stuck in, we are by now less than eager to rappel down in general and especially not in the dark. A plan B is starting to form; traverse a couple of ridgelines in a big circle down to the beach. Not being able to overlook the complete traverse there is a risk that we will need to rappel anyway, or worst case spend the night up on the mountain, but the nights have been warm and we have enough snacks to manage until the next morning if needed.
As if meant to be, we top out just as the sun sets and are rewarded by an intensely purple sky and great views over the Strait of Hormuz. The way down turns out to be relatively straightforward, with some scrambling and a few tricky spots but no need to use rope at any point. Five hours after topping out, it is a tired but very satisfied team that arrives at the kayaks back on the beach.
It is another completely calm night in the fjord and everything is silent when we peacefully glide through the water on our way back to camp. Then, out of nowhere (well, the pitch black ocean..), fish start to jump out of the water around and onto the kayaks. One crashes into my chest, flaps around on my spraydeck for a few seconds and then just as quickly disappears down into the dark water again - leaving me with a rather high pulse, wondering what the hell just happened! Hearing my shout, at least Alan and Aniek got a good laugh from the whole thing. All in all a truly memorable day (and night) out!
Without logic or reasoning behind it, the route gets the name “Taste the paste”, borrowed from the marketing slogan of the tomato paste that spiced up our tuna every lunch throughout the week.
Timelapse from the seven hours of climbing “Taste the Paste”
We spend the last day and night hiking up to a mountain top and looking out over the straight and the Iranian coastline before we start heading back to Khasab.
Musandam in general, and our fjord in particular is a special place. One of those places that truly makes you feel like you are far away from home. While having a perfect climate for a mid-winter trip I can only imagine the massive heat this area comes with in the summer, and while the ocean appeared to be rich in fish, dolphins and whales, life on land consisted mostly of a handful of goats and the odd bird of prey.
And, talking of animals, as a cherry on top of an already fantastic trip, we were able to find our way to the camel race track in Dubai before catching our flight home.
THE TEAM
Alan Goldbetter
American/Finnish climber with a weak spot for first ascents in odd places. Has a bucket list 40 pages long.
The instigator of this trip.
Aniek Lith
Dutch girl completely unable to say no to adventures. Made it an ultimatum to go by kayak rather than boat into the fjord.
The one we turn to when the climbing gets tricky.
Marius Rølland, aka Me
Better at taking photos than climbing and a rookie trad climber, but always eager to bring the camera to new places.
Absolutely nuts about adventurous trips like this one.